14 November 2006 - Ashton Court is an oasis of tranquillity, but with about 1.7 million visitors, it's also the most popular park in the country. We look into the history books to find out more.
ASHTON Court - just the other side of the suspension bridge and so actually in North Somerset - has been inextricably linked with Bristol ever since its beginnings as a Saxon township. Archaeologists have discovered field patterns which tell us that people have lived and farmed in this special place since Iron Age times, or possibly earlier.
Part of the mysterious Wansdyke (an ancient Roman/Saxon fortification running from Portishead, through Long Ashton over Dundry and on past Bath towards Marlborough) runs through the estate. After the defeat of King Harold in 1066, the Norman invaders soon arrived in the west to carve up the old Saxon estates.
Ashton (or Estune, as it was called) became the property of the warrior Bishop of Coutances, the man responsible for the building of Bristol castle. But his nephew, Robert de Mowbray, lost it in an ill-conceived rebellion.
At the end of the 13th century, it was sold to William de Lyons. When he died in 1312, he left behind a mansion plus 147 acres of arable land, 44 acres of meadow and three mills. In 1392, Thomas de Lyons, who also built, or rebuilt, Long Ashton church, got permission to enclose his land as a park.
Thomas, granted 'free warren' - that is, the right to hunt game - set up a seven-acre conygre (rabbit warren) in the grounds. He also married rich heiress Margaret Blanket, a member of the Bristol textile family which, legend has it, popularised the woollen bed covering.
Ashton Court later passed through the hands of several important owners, including Sir Richard Choke, the chief justice (who is buried in the church); Lord Daubney, the king's chamberlain, and Sir Thomas Arundel, who was one of Henry VIII's commissioners for closing down the monasteries.
Thomas was later beheaded for rebellion, but, before his death, he sold the mansion to up and coming Bristol merchant John Smyth. That was in 1545, and the Smyths made it their home for about four centuries. John Smyth was sheriff and twice mayor of Bristol, but his son, Hugh, a wild character involved in poaching, armed robbery and assaults, was only saved from jail or execution by the regular payment of heavy fines. But it was Hugh who enlarged the park - a trend followed by succeeding generations.
His son, Thomas, MP for Bridgwater, who died in 1642, was one of the last of the great estate owners, along with the Berkeleys, to keep a resident jester.
For Thomas's services as Royalist commander during the Civil War, King Charles II, on his restoration, made his son a baronet. The formal gardens were established about this time and the south-west wing of 1633/4 added in the style of the Inigo Jones banqueting hall in Whitehall. In 1802 top landscape designer, Humphrey Repton, (who was also responsible for the Blaise estate) was called in to see if he could suggest any improvements.
He was thrilled with the views down to Bristol and the river Avon and some of his ideas were used in the planting of the estate and its drives. The five-mile-long wall around the estate - some of which has recently been repaired - was completed around this time and 10,000 new trees and 750 shrubs planted.
The restored red and fallow deer park, where visitors can get close up to the animals, has been associated with the estate since the 14th century.
When the Smyth's male line died out various descendants adopted the name, including lawyer, slave trader and coal baron Jarit Smyth (born Smith) and Sir Greville Smyth (born Upton).
Imposter Tom Provis, who claimed to be Sir Richard Smyth, was exposed as a charlatan and died in prison. Sir Greville continued with the planting, bringing in new species, including the controversial giant Wellintonias. When he died in 1901 and the Smyth male line became extinct once more, Esme Irby changed her name to the Hon. Mrs Esme Smyth.
The mansion had been deteriorating since World War I, and the Corporation pondered buying it, just as they had Blaise Mansion in 1926. But in 1939, the court - with Mrs Smyth still living there - was requisitioned by the military to become a transit camp, RAF headquarters and US army nerve centre.
When Esme, the last of the Smyth dynasty, died in 1946, the house, already in disrepair, lay empty and forelorn. Throughout the 1950s damp, dry rot, beetle infestations and, above all, vandalism, began to take their toll. Amid mounting public concern - but realising that they faced a daunting programme of restoration and refurbishment - the city council finally bought the estate in 1959. The 840 acres of woodland and open countryside has seen much conservation work recently but the mansion itself - now used for conferences, wedding receptions and the like - is still, after all these years, in need of much care and attention.
More than £4 million of lottery funding may help, but is it enough?
As well as having many different woodland areas, all with their own distinctive qualities, Ashton Court also gives shelter to the so-called Domesday Oak.
These woodlands, managed for conservation, leisure and timber, have resulted in diverse environments. Rownham Plantation hosts a spectacular carpet of spring bluebells, and Clarken Coombe (where the lodge is currently undergoing restoration) is a wonderful example of ancient wood pasture complete with very old oak trees. And the Summerhouse Plantation (close to the mansion and car parks) is full of interesting land forms and archaeology.
Surrounding the mansion are a terraced lawn, a sunken garden - where plays are performed in the summer months - a pond and a rose garden. Additional attractions are the cafe in the old stables, two pitch-and-putt golf courses (with spectacular views across the city) orienteering, mountain-biking, horse riding and walking trails.
In fact, Grade one-listed Ashton Court can claim to have just about everything - even ghosts. A headless horseman, a grey lady and even an aggressive chambermaid have all, apparently, been seen over the years. Visited by more than 1.7 million people a year, Ashton Court estate hosts some of the West's biggest and most popular events, including the International Balloon Fiesta, the kite festival and the yearly community music festival.
